Caher River

In any other place the Caher River wouldn’t be considered in any way special. It would be nothing more than just another average stream running through the countryside. 

In the Burren however the Caher holds a unique position. Like in other limestone karst areas most rivers make their way underground and only visit the surface on occasion if at all. Not so the Caher River. It is the only river in the Burren that stays above ground from source to sea.

The river starts its journey in the shadows of Slieve Elva and Poulacapple and from there it flows along the Caher Valley. It is thought that the significant amount of ringforts, or cahers, in the area gave the name to both valley and river. These ringforts however are not the only sign that the valleys along the Caher River have been inhabited by men for a long time. A fulacht fiadh (cooking place), the panel chapel of Fermoy with its nearby children’s burial ground and the village of Caherbannagh which has been wiped out during the famine are only a few examples of the long and rich history of the area.

The heart of Caher Valley is a small forest, mainly made of hazel and other shrubs, which is bounded by the river. This forest is one of the major strongholds of the pine marten in the Burren and the sheltered conditions host a multitude of wildflowers. John McNamara, a local man from Fanore, turned this little piece of heaven into a nature reserve and opened it to the public in 2000. Tragically and unexpected John passed away in 2004 and unfortunately the reserve has been closed ever since.

For the majority of its course the Caher River is a slow flowing and gentle stream, rarely more than ankle deep and during dry periods it can disappear almost completely. For the last part of its journey through the Khyber Pass however the Caher turns into a majestic mountain stream. For 2 km the river drops a total of 60 meters, rushing over cascades and forming deep eddies which are overshadowed by soft cliffs. Especially in winter or after heavy rainfalls the Caher river is a truly impressive and beautiful sight. The oddly named Khyber Pass most likely got its name from a local man who had served in India with the British army and somehow made a connection between the famous pass that connects Afghanistan and Pakistan and the road up to the Caher Valley.

The only fish recorded in the river are the brown trout and European eel. The birdlife is a bit more varied with the dipper, the grey wagtail and the grey heron being a regular sight along at the river.

The Caher finally reaches the sea after a run of only 7 kilometers in Fanore where it runs across the wide sandy beach into the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Most of the images were made in winter 2012/2013 and show the Caher River in its winter clothing. Spring and summer are a totally different affair and I will go back to capture the Caher when milder temperatures will have transformed its banks into a wildflower garden.

 text & image(s) Copyright by Carsten Krieger Photography - no download or reproduction without written permission

A new Burren journey

Almost 10 years ago I started my career as a professional photographer in Ireland with a project that would eventually become my first book The Fertile Rock - Seasons in the Burren. Much has changed since then in my own life and in the the Burren. I have become a father, moved house, have traveled to each and every corner of Ireland and published several more books. The Burren has achieved Geopark status and through the work of the Burren Beo Trust and the Burren Connect program has also become better protected and more appreciated. 

What hasn't changed however is my fascination with this barren yet fertile area in the north of County Clare. Late last year, after finishing my latest book Ireland's Coast all the miles traveled over the years seemed to finally catch up with me. I felt road weary and worn out and decided to retire to some familiar places in the Burren to recharge the batteries. It felt like coming home. 

During these few days last autumn the idea for The Burren - Portraits of the Fertile Rock was born. Over the coming months (or years...) I will put together a collection of photo essays on all things Burren: Places, history and heritage, nature and wildlife, people, ... The list of topics and ideas is already long.

The Burren Beo Trust and Burren Connect have kindly agreed to support my new Burren journey and I am looking forward exploring the fertile rock again. You are very welcome to follow me on this journey so please come back and experience the Burren with me.

text & image(s) Copyright by Carsten Krieger Photography - no download or reproduction without written permission

Winter in the Burren

Winter in the Burren is usually a very mild affair. Temperatures rarely drop below freezing; frost and snow are a rarity. Responsible for that are the Gulf Stream that keeps Ireland considerably warmer than its latitude neighbours and the heat storage capabilities of the limestone.

This mild climate however doesn’t necessarily mean good weather. Apart from comfortable temperatures Burren winters mean the frequent arrival of low-pressure systems that bring gales and storms, often accompanied by heavy rain or hail and thunderstorms. When the wind eventually abates it leaves the Burren with what is known as a grand soft day. It is rain and drizzle so fine you don’t realize it’s there until you are soaked to the skin. It leaves the landscape coated in a damp cloth and makes the warm colours of winter glow. On occasion when a high-pressure system drops by there is a little frost at night and dense fog during the day. And very rarely there is a blue-sky day and the grey Burren hills, along with everybody else, enjoys some glorious winter sunshine.

Sometimes however these weather patterns are turned upside down. In the winters of 2009/10 Ireland got caught in an unprecedented cold snap and not even the Burren did escape. For weeks the landscape was covered in hoar frost, lakes and turloughs froze over and life came to a standstill. Impassable roads got people stranded at home with no or limited water supply due to frozen pipes and keeping houses warm became a real challenge. But these problems became a bit easier to bear when looking at the scene outside. Blankets of mist and fog were whirling around the hilltops while the winter sun was shining from a blue sky, casting its soft light over a wonderland of frost and ice. I rarely have seen the Burren in such beauty.

The ice and snow eventually disappeared and the Burren got back to its usual winter self: The dark, wet limestone drying in the westerly gales and the warm brown and yellow tones of shrubs and meadows glowing in the winter twilight.